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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2018 Eclipse Cross (ES, 2wd). Its just over 2 yrs old now and been running great.

Then the unthinkable: FLOOD

Just moved into a new house, but was not told the street floods if it rains hard for an hour. One day my neighbor calls me at 8am. "Dude, get out and move your car NOW!". I waded through knee deep water and cringed as I opened the door and saw the gallons pouring in. Took me all day to get it close to dry and two weeks to get it completely.

A short time later I had some warning lights come on my dash: Airbags, ABS & DCS

Took it to the dealer, hoping to get it taken care of, as it's still under warranty. The first time I took it in, the warning lights had gone off on their own and there was no history of any prob, so they sent me home. But then it became more persistent, so I took it in and left it at the dealer for a week. They felt the floor damp and found corrosion on the circuit board of the PCM (onboard computer), and informed me that water damage voided the warranty, but they can replace it for approx $1,200.

Didn't have the cash to fix it. Still don't. Been driving for 6 months now without a real prob, besides no airbags, no ABS or traction stabilization.

I'm a PC technician and thought about taking out the computer and cleaning off the circuit board. Any reason I shouldn't?

Any other ideas that can help?

Thanks very much!
 

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The only reason I could think would be if somehow in the cleaning process, you'd accidentally wipe the programming. Only the dealer can reflash that, and I'm not sure if they'd do it to a damaged ECU. Lawyers and liabilities, y'know. Besides, I'm not sure what cleaning the PCB would do at this point. You'd probably just be better off removing the connectors and checking each for corrosion. If the board itself is damaged, unless you can replace the components (or even get the right ones in the first place) then you're just wasting your time and energy.

Has anyone checked the diagnostic codes lately? If water got into the sensors, that could be the reason for the errors and not the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, it’s kind of a last ditch effort to get it to work properly.

Since the warning lights go on and off, maybe I could clean off the corrosion w electrical cleaner and a dentists pick.

Is the computer in the same housing as the fuse box?
 

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Can someone help me out here?

I just checked the manual in the link above, and while I did find several references for replacing the Engine-ECU, I could not find any specific instructions.

I’m hoping that it’s so easy, they didn’t even bother. Like “Open the engine hood”.
 

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Hi, on the Russian web site ensure you have the Workshop Manual selected from the the list on the top left drop down menu. In the search input box below type in ECU and hit enter. All mentions of the text ECU will be highlighted in brown italic text in the left panel. If you ignore the entry for Fuel and scroll down to the entry for Cruise Control and look in the diagnosis codes for the first highlight. It has in there a list of the issues and fixes for that particular problem.

In the text of the main window on the right you will see the diagnosis procedure. One is Remove the ECU and next to it is a blue arrow. Click the blue arrow and it will take you to the removal process for the ECU. I have posted a screen shot below.

Have you tried a salvage yard/vehicle wreckers to see if you can source a unit from a written off wreck? May be a cheaper option. If you find one of the same model then it should be OK and you would need to follow the caution notes in the attached screen shot. Only a dealer would be able to change the VIN number coded into the ECU so a visit to a dealer is inevitable. Worth a try. Best of luck...

956
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for the guidance.

This is becoming more confusing to me because the mechanic who checked the prob showed me a pic of the corrosion on the ECU, but he said that it was under the dash, inside of the cabin.

However the one pictured here is in the engine compartment.
 

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He may be referring to the ETACS-ECU which is in the cabin next to the fuse assembly. This ECU is more easily replaced it seems so a salvage yard reclamation may be a cheaper option. See the attached diagram:

957


Here is the removal process from the Workshop Manual section of the web site:

958
 

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Discussion Starter #9
He may be referring to the ETACS-ECU which is in the cabin next to the fuse assembly. This ECU is more easily replaced it seems so a salvage yard reclamation may be a cheaper option. See the attached diagram:

View attachment 957

Here is the removal process from the Workshop Manual section of the web site:

View attachment 958
Thank you, this is perfect!

it looks like this either directly behind or a part of the fuse box.
 
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