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That's usually why it's not recommended to drive too aggressively for the first 1k miles or so. Since the P0014 error is a timing spec variance, it could have just been .001° out of the target range to throw the code. You might want to call it to the dealer's attention, just to get it on the record should it turn out to be a defect.
 

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That's usually why it's not recommended to drive too aggressively for the first 1k miles or so. Since the P0014 error is a timing spec variance, it could have just been .001° out of the target range to throw the code. You might want to call it to the dealer's attention, just to get it on the record should it turn out to be a defect.
I couldn't get it to come back. I did let the dealer know. They want to see the car if the code comes back.
To be fair to the car, 65 isn't pushing too hard for most cars, but EC really has to put in the effort to get there!
 

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I couldn't get it to come back. I did let the dealer know. They want to see the car if the code comes back.
To be fair to the car, 65 isn't pushing too hard for most cars, but EC really has to put in the effort to get there!
The 65 with effort sounds strange. My EC is up to 80mph in no time if you let, and very easily indeed. Think your car needs looking at pightlysitful
I have a manual 6speed gearbox EC, as apposed to the CVT transmission. Even so, something seems amiss and believe your car needs looking at. Hope you can get it sorted
soon, so you can enjoy your car to the full.
 

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A visit maybe to your dealer and see if they can sort it out.
 

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Yup, taking it in on Friday. I had to clear these faults so it would drive. It was acting really strange. This car did sit on the lot for 11 months, I wonder if the battery went bad.
 

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Of course now the dealer has no info to go on. You have deleted the codes, and all the freeze frame data.

From this freeze frame data they would have much more information than you see on your screen.

I understand your need to want to drive the car there, but maybe a tow would have been more appropriate?
 

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If I had that option, I would've. I live 1.5 away from the dealer and work 45 minutes the other side of home. So I was 2.5 hours from the dealer at the time.

With these codes, the AWD was being stupid wonky. I could feel the brakes at each corner working independently it was in some sort of a limp mode. Rpms were all over the place. I only drove about 100 feet so I could figure it out. I did screen cap the codes though.
 

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Well Pightlysitful you have the screen information which should point them in the right direction. In the circumstances I would have done the same thing as you,
Fingers crossed they can sort out the problem and also ensure the cars performance overall, is what it should be.
Let us know how you get on.
 
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Well, it turns out the car was due for a PCM update. I guess it makes sense if the modules on the car weren't receiving the correct power. So we'll see i guess.
 

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Thank you guys for your feedback.

Mitsubishi Canada is now involved with this issue. The dealership service department is working with Mitsubishi motors Canada technicians to resolve the issue. I am hoping this time would be the last time.

I have been getting gas at Costco for years. My colleague who own Mitsubishi also use Costco and has had no issues. I used Esso as well as petrocan and the light still came on.

Been told a bunch of BS and having a good knowledge about engines I could explain to the service manager that fuel is not the cause... . but I don't think he knows what he is doing. Hopefully technicians at Mitsubishi Canada can help him resolve the issue.

I joined this forum to see if this was an issue with the car or just mine in particular.. looks like it's just mine. But this has forever scarred me to be honest and I have lost faith in this manufacturer.
Try staying away from Costco for now and do Shell and others.....I had an 01 Montero Sport XLS before that never liked Costco gas, always throw the SEL every time.
 
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