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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Does anyone know too much kick Down will hurt the CVT like it does with Normal Automatic Transmissions?

I have this Problem that for example in higher Speed 120 KMH or so , when I want to overtake and I press the accelerator instead of getting power it just stalls for a second or two then slowly the speed rises, So in Overtake situations I have to kick down. I complained to dealer they checked the car in their workshop but couldn't find anything wrong.

Does any one has the same problem?
 

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I have seen the same results at pretty much any speed. There is always a hesitation for it to anything when pressing the pedal down quickly. When I know i'm going to need more instant response, i just hit the left paddle to down shift it then when almost done overtaking, hold the right till it regains D instead of specific gear (if you can call it a gear in a CVT).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi mtgtnt,

Sorry for late reply. Thanks for your Reply as well , So I know now that I am not alone in this case. Do you also feel the Engine Vibration when the Engine is cold ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank Nikolay, in my EC this vibration Does not happens in the cold morning start , it happens after 2 KM drive to my Child's school and then when I start the car again the Vibration is there until the engine gets warm.

By the way do you know how to reset the CVT memory?

Thanks
 

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Hi Guys,

Does anyone know too much kick Down will hurt the CVT like it does with Normal Automatic Transmissions?

I have this Problem that for example in higher Speed 120 KMH or so , when I want to overtake and I press the accelerator instead of getting power it just stalls for a second or two then slowly the speed rises, So in Overtake situations I have to kick down. I complained to dealer they checked the car in their workshop but couldn't find anything wrong.

Does any one has the same problem?

At least the kick-down itself should not be a problem as it is the overtake technique directly recommended in the manual.
 

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The TCU will not let you "drop down" to a "gear ratio" that isn't consider within safe operating parameters for the CVT. Though, with these Jatcos it's not the TCU I worry about but the reliability or longevity of the transmission itself.

I agree, too, with mtgtnt - due to a lack of some form of "Sport" mode on this vehicle, the only way to quickly make the transmission recognize that you need a tighter simulated "gear" is to paddle-down, then go back to D so it can adjust to the proper gear ratio.

The best acceleration with a CVT actually happens in "D" or "D-M". Paddle shifting other than stated above is a joke with any Jatco transmission. The latter (D-M) actually does shift up those simulated gears for you, only that each shift is done much closer to redline. So, if you find that you need to "shift" aggressively for more than just one moment, then consider setting your shifter to D-M.

Finally, on "resetting" the CVT --- talk to the dealership about that. Further, ask them if there's a "teach-in" procedure that they can perform on the transmission. That might help make your CVT a little more responsive. (Though, again, I wouldn't expect much from a Jatco transmission.)

(Teach-in is like a recalibration of sorts, where the TCU recalibrates its own math parameters based on the current "break-in" conditions of the engine, etc. For instance, Revs to 6000RPM, brake pedal depression, intake pressure, etc.)
 

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Hi there!
How much does your engine rev under kick down conditions?
I used the kick down quite a lot in the past couple of days and it doesn't seem quite right. It revs the engine from 3000 rpm and apparently the acceleration is a bit poor in the begining.
I am quite sure that it was reving from close to 5000 rpm in the past.
Basically there is no difference wether I kick it down or just push the peddle 2/3 the way.

I noticed that the gearbox resets some of the settings (changes behaviour) after being driven in manual mode.
 

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I'm not sure you guys get it - shifting with a CVT is pointless, unless it's to try to engage the lower gears for more "throttle response". If so, just stomp on the accelerator and wait.
Because shifting down really doesn't do you much good either. Remember, this is NOT a typical A/T with gears.

Based on what the FSM tells me, the optimum RPM to get the car the best torque is 6000 RPM - when the car goes WOT. Awfully high, if you asked me. But, nonetheless...
Since a CVT doesn't have gears to appropriate a "gear ratio", all you have is rev-matching to close to 6000 for best effect (see attached).

As far as TCU learning procedures, those can be "learned-in" at the dealership, or if you have the MUT tool - to be more "aggressive", if you will. Else, the vehicle does tend to sense whether you're attempting to drive aggressively - based on accelerator pedal depression.
And, no - the TCU is never going to be as responsive as that in the Evo X MR, so don't expect instantaneous shifting either.

Other than that, you're still having to deal with a shitty Jatco CVT and bad TCU programming. Believe it or not, the programming in the more recent revisions of the Outlander / Outlander Sport's are better... more responsive... than that of the Cross.

Good luck - and if you want this to get better, drop your local regional sales rep a nastygram and tell them you want them to go back to Getrag, MHI, or heck--- even Aisin Warner (Toyota) if they can.
(Go figure: Jatco = Nissan. Good luck getting MMC leadership to budge.)
 

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I own one and after a couple of months of driving, the only solution will be to change my car. I will probably never touch again a CVT transmission. We have 2 elastics in this car: the first is the CVT/TCU programming and the second is the Turbo.

During normal acceleration, the CVT "shifts" like if we were passing from 1st to 4th gear - for fuel economy I guest.

Too much mechanic protection - probably to make sure nothing will happen during car's warranty.

The more I drive this car, the more I hate it.
 
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