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To All;

Below are complete details and information to do the oil change yourself. At top is the summary for seasoned mechanics, and below you will find detail steps and pictures for those who need more assistance.

So here goes;

Summary
I figure most everyone can do this without using a jack. The Cross has quite a bit of ground clearance and I found I did not need a jack. First is to remove the Oil Filler cap. It is black on the passenger side of the engine near the back. Further back behind it is the Oil dipstick, which has a white handle on it. Next drain the oil, you need a 17mm wrench or socket for this. The pan is near the center of the vehicle with the drain plug on the back side(rear side). Next remove the oil filter and install a new one. Remember to clean the mounting surface and put a dab of new oil on the gasket on the filter. Replace the drain plug. You will need a new crush washer. Mitsu sells them for about $4. I got one at Napa, same quality for $1.69. Napa part number 7041962. I used a Fram Filter number PH7317. Tighten the drain plug, refil with oil, about 4.5 quarts, run for 30 seconds, recheck oil level. That's is for the pros.

Items needed:
new oil Filter - Fram PH7317
New crush washer - Napa part 7041962
New Oil - 0-20w - I used synthetic
Drain pan
rags
light
10mm wrench
17mm wrench
small flat blade screwdriver
gloves if you like
Light to help see underneath car and in engine
new/clean funnel to fill new oil



Detailed instructions and pictures for those who need more assistance:
1) Remove the Oil Filler Cap. Picture below of the Engine Cover (large black plastic piece with Mitsu logo). You can see the oil filler cap and behind it the White dipstick handle. 1st PIC, if the post keeps them in order.

2) Now you will need to remove the plastic guard under the engine. This keeps dirt and water out of the engine. If you do not remove this, when you remove the oil filter, it will get all over the plastic guard and will drip forever and be a mess. 2nd PIC. This is held on by 2 plastic rivets and 2 bolts. You will need a 10mm wrench for this. In the picture my finger is pointing to one of the 10mm bolts. It is silver. Simply remove these. Next you need to remove the 2 plastic rivets. PIC 3 is a close up of the rivet. To remove these, use a small flat blade screwdriver. Gently pry just the inside of the rivet, the small circle, at one of the cross areas that are open. Do this on 2 sides, wiggling it out slowly and it will not break. Then pull out with your fingers. Now simply slide this plastic guard toward the rear of the vehicle and it will come loose.

3) Now you will have a good view of the oil filter and the oil pan which is directly behind the oil filter. PIC 4 In my pics you can see there is a lot of snow there also. We had a freak snowstorm today April 14th in Chicago. Anyway, the original oil filter is black and the oil pan is black as well. Near the rear of the pan you will see the Drain plug on the back side. Get yourself a pan to drain in. I use a pan that is about 12 inches in diameter and 5 inches deep. It will drip from the pan and the filter, so you need a pan big enough to catch all drips. Make sure the oil is not too hot or you could get burned. Use gloves if you are sensitive.

4) remove the drain plug. You will need a 17mm wrench for this. You must turn the bolt counter clockwise. Picture yourself looking at it from the back like looking at a clock face. Turn the opposite way the clock turns. Don't let the plug fall in the drain pan or you will have to fish it out. Have a rag handy. PIC 5 shows the oil draining and you can see it is dirty.

5) Now you can remove the old oil filter. Again counter clockwise. I tried with my bare hands, but it was too tight. PIC 6 shows 2 different types of filter wrenches. The band type was need to remove the Mitsu filter as it was too large. The other cup type filter, fit the fram filter perfectly. However you do it, unscrew and let it drain in the drain pan.

6) Now you need to clean the mounting surface for the new filter. PIC 7

7) Once all oil is finished draining, it is time to put it back together. Take the drain plug and remove the old crush washer. Then install the new crush washer on the plug. If the crush washer has a flat side, it needs to go against the bolt. PIC 8 - Pic shows plug on left, used washer in middle and new washer on right. Put washer on the plug and hand thread the plug back into the pan. You hand thread it so you make sure it goes in straight and does not cross thread the pan. If it does not go in easy with your hand, then you do not have it seated properly. You should be able to turn it 5 turns or so by hand. Then get your 17mm and tighten it up. If you are a big guy, go easy, do not overtighten. One arm strength is way more than enough.

8) now you need to install a new filter. Put your clean finger in the new oil and get a drop or two, then spread that on the gasket on the new filter. This will allow the gasket to seal against the mounting surface. Now put the new filter on and turn clockwise. Again, just use one hand for this and just tighten with your hand, your wrench should not be necessary unless you are very small or perhaps female, but do not overtighten.

9) both the plug and the filter need to be tight enough not to leak - that is all. At this point you should take a clean wrag/paper towels, and ensure that the filter, oil pan and oil drain plug are spotless, not a single drop of oil on them. Clean with windex or water if you like. Ensure they are clean and dry. You will be coming back later to check and see if it leaks, thus that is why we are cleaning it.

10) remove all tools from the area. It is time to put in new oil. Pic 1 shows the oil filler cap which you previously removed. This is where the new oil goes. Get a funnel so that you don't spill. Spilled oil makes a real mess and will eventually cause engine problems, electrical problems, so you dont want to spill.

11) pour in 1 or 2 quarts - now stop and go back under the vehicle and ensure that the drain plug is not leaking and that the oil filter is not leaking. The easiest way is to take a clean dry paper towel (white) and wipe around the filter and the drain plug. Check afterwards and the paper towel should be clean an spotless, if it has oil, look closer to see where it is coming from. If it leaks think, did you install a new crush washer? It must be new, previously used crush washer will leak. Did you put a drop of oil on the gasket on the oil filter? If necessary you can tighten the plug or filter a bit to see if it stops, but you must not overtighten. If you need to use 2 hands, that is TOO tight. The do sell torque wrenches and specify foot pounds for torquing, but this is generally not necessary for an oil change.

12) Assuming it is not leaking, you need to continue to add new oil, about 4.4 to 4.5 quarts. Do a little less and then add a little bit later, you do not want to overfill. Put the oil filler cap on. Remove all tools. Start engine, let it run for 1 minute. Turn off engine. Remove dipstick (white handle), wipe with a rag, insert dipstick, let sit for a second, then remove. Now read the dipstick. The oil level must be between the 2 dots. If it is too low add about a 1/3 of a quart and re-check.

13) Now you need to re-install the guard under the engine. Slip into place, install the 10mm bolts and then install the 2 plastic rivets.

Congrats, you have changed your own oil. Make sure to write down the mileage and date and save your receipts for warranty proof if needed.
 

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This is precisely why I come to communities like this. Excellent information!
Its posts like this with past cars I've owned that got me into DIY jobs. Being someone furthest from having any mechanical ability to performing most basic maintenance is what can come of this.
Keep us posted on future servicing you do.
 

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your welcome

The internet is great for things like this. There are forums for everything and you can learn alot in life. I know I have and I am glad to contribute where I can.
 

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Nice writeup.

FWIW, I strongly suggest to people that during their next oil change, they replace their drain plugs with magnetic ones.
Helps the oil filter some, and prevents any major shears from continuing to wreak havoc on their engine.

Same applies to transmission and transfer case fluid. Though, you shouldn't have to replace those as often.

 

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Likewise I would like to hear feedback about using Motul, if anyone has plans on using their products.
Some Honda communities i used to be part of praised them for both race and regular oil for daily driven vehicles.
 

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Nice write up ,i also do most of my own maintenance, oil, brake pads etc . Just make sure you use quality parts especially the oil filter. Most of the cheap Fram filters have paper filter medium and will end up inside your engine. Some better options are Mitsubishi, Purolator, K&N , or Wix . But of course this is just my opinion, to each his own cheers
 
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