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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Very nice work on those lights!

Man, I didn't realize they offered the 4B11 variant on this side of the world. I thought it was just in Europe and Asia.
Too bad they didn't offer a turbocharged version like on the Ralliart Lancer, at the very least.

That would have been a major step up, in my opinion.

If you guys are really that intent on Ralliart badges, make sure to get these part numbers:
7450A309
7450A527

Here's an example (shipping is ridiculous for this ebay Item, but it is from JP. I'm sure your local parts dealer can find it for you.)

 

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I'd stay clear of a lot of aftermarket non-genuine RalliArt badges. Most of them are crap. Either they discolor, or warp (if in resin), or fade --- or the adhesive sucks.
The genuine ones are the only ones I've found that last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Very nice work on those lights!

Man, I didn't realize they offered the 4B11 variant on this side of the world. I thought it was just in Europe and Asia.
Too bad they didn't offer a turbocharged version like on the Ralliart Lancer, at the very least.

That would have been a major step up, in my opinion.

If you guys are really that intent on Ralliart badges, make sure to get these part numbers:
7450A309
7450A527

Here's an example (shipping is ridiculous for this ebay Item, but it is from JP. I'm sure your local parts dealer can find it for you.)

Yea ..i kinda prefer the 2liter had it in asx and love it, so I am familiar with powertrain. ... .. the turbo version has same hp but more torque, especially at lower rpm...however I have plan turbo... which should give me a little more power... ralliart set up, not sure about ralliart turbo though as I am not looking to tune more than 220hp 200lb torque ( likely 190lb)
But that's in the future, will be gathering parts and do more research.
Badge at rear is an aluminum high quality doubt will fade.. I agree with other types as they have faded... I also have the front badge...but haven't place it on as yet.
 

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Yea ..i kinda prefer the 2liter had it in asx and love it, so I am familiar with powertrain. ... .. the turbo version has same hp but more torque, especially at lower rpm...however I have plan turbo... which should give me a little more power... ralliart set up, not sure about ralliart turbo though as I am not looking to tune more than 220hp 200lb torque ( likely 190lb)
But that's in the future, will be gathering parts and do more research.
Badge at rear is an aluminum high quality doubt will fade.. I agree with other types as they have faded... I also have the front badge...but haven't place it on as yet.
The 4B12, in its stock form, wasn't too bad. What was truly surprising was that the CVT programming with the 2.4L was so much better than that with the 2.0, or the 1.5L we have in the Cross (which is why I bitch constantly about it.) I was rather unimpressed with the 4B11 N/A and we had to upgrade to get the 0.4L extra displacement because of torque. Thing is, turbocharging does change the feel of the car in the power delivery department significantly, if done correctly. You might get a different feel altogether driving a stock CZ* Ralliart compared to an Evo X. Same engine and transmission, just different tuning.

My suggestion - go the Evo route. Make sure you have the DCT-470 if you want to stick with an A/T. Ditch that stupid CVT.
Better yet, you might just find a wrecked Evo X and get all your donor parts from it. Drivetrain (trans, diffs, T-Case) and electrical/electronics are the most important parts you can get that way.
Save yourself the trouble of having to build up from an N/A vehicle.

And if you do go the Evo conversion route, trust me when I say this, you won't want to piecemeal this. The electronics on the Evo X are much more sophisticated than that of an IX. The Yaw and G-sensors for one, and how they interact with the TCU and ECU to control braking and ACD engagement --- the magic has to happen, and it has to be driven by something. The RalliArt (has an RS diff) has less of this "magic" than the Evo does. But that's what makes the X so special.

Anyway, good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The 4B12, in its stock form, wasn't too bad. What was truly surprising was that the CVT programming with the 2.4L was so much better than that with the 2.0, or the 1.5L we have in the Cross (which is why I bitch constantly about it.) I was rather unimpressed with the 4B11 N/A and we had to upgrade to get the 0.4L extra displacement because of torque. Thing is, turbocharging does change the feel of the car in the power delivery department significantly, if done correctly. You might get a different feel altogether driving a stock CZ* Ralliart compared to an Evo X. Same engine and transmission, just different tuning.

My suggestion - go the Evo route. Make sure you have the DCT-470 if you want to stick with an A/T. Ditch that stupid CVT.
Better yet, you might just find a wrecked Evo X and get all your donor parts from it. Drivetrain (trans, diffs, T-Case) and electrical/electronics are the most important parts you can get that way.
Save yourself the trouble of having to build up from an N/A vehicle.

And if you do go the Evo conversion route, trust me when I say this, you won't want to piecemeal this. The electronics on the Evo X are much more sophisticated than that of an IX. The Yaw and G-sensors for one, and how they interact with the TCU and ECU to control braking and ACD engagement --- the magic has to happen, and it has to be driven by something. The RalliArt (has an RS diff) has less of this "magic" than the Evo does. But that's what makes the X so special.

Anyway, good luck.
Yea ... I agree even though the eclipse cross has basically same engine and tranny I notice that the tranny is tune differently...its less aggressive than the asx ...wonder if they are over protecting the cvt.
However I plan on more getting a donor ralliart and swap its drivetrain... as it has less complicated computer communication going on especially with the drivetrain ...but as is only mild tweak will be done to cross.
Recently I have been pushing it hard reaction wasn't bad, body lean/roll was ok..guess I was expecting the lean so no surprise there.....however steering felt real good, as I had said before the the steering firms up the harder u drive and it did. I was in total control even at high speed.
 

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But remember, the RalliArt's S-AWC is still far different to that of the Cross. The Cross' is more alike to the Outlander than it is the Evo. So, even though the RA rear diff is just an RS (torsen), the RalliArt's ACD is always going to be more responsive than that of the Cross, by design. And has different programming altogether. Remember (if you didn't already know) it's not activated by wheel speed sensors alone (braking moment, like Scoobies, etc), but by calculations against yaw, pitch, and slip. That's why, to activate torque vectoring on an Evo X, you ACCELERATE, not brake.

This is what people who don't drive an Evo X do not understand. Yes, it's counterintuitive - but that's why it's fucking awesome! (The Cross comes close, but not quite.)

In any case, it does make me wonder whether you could use the DCT-470 and ACD from the RalliArt, and still retain use of the active rear diff on the Cross. How? Dunno. Less electronics, aye. But I wouldn't know what you'd need to do to retain that function with either TCU. The Cross does have torque vectoring, which does make it more fun to drive around twisty roads than the Sport/ASX. And that's why I say get a wrecked Evo rather than a RalliArt instead. Because if you wanna stick to the Torsen, then say goodbye to your Active Rear diff.

Whatever it is that you end up doing, though - just be aware that it's not as simple as you might think. If you're looking at a drivetrain swap, you'll need to drop in the TCU as well to control the SST and ACD. A GEMS or MoTeC Center Diff controller might help, but your factory TCU won't know what to do with the SST.
 
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Hey, @Willisjamaica - been a while. Curious as to whether you've pulled the trigger on this idea of a swap just yet 😁. And how is going.
 
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