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Popped the right most push switch from the bottom row of the safety gear panel to check size for the light bar switch and found it has a wiring loom connected plug attached to the back. Obviously part off the wiring loom that is not used in our models (transposed for left hand drive it lists in the US manual as the headlight levelling switch). I moved it to the next left slot, next to the Sonar disable switch. Can get a switch to pop straight in to this panel from STEDI. Not too worried about anything other than a light to show the light bar is on when high beam is selected and far enough away so that I don't hit another switch in the process of setting that switch. Plus it's easier to see at a glance in that slot. None of the other switches are illuminated...
 

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Their quote was just over $1000 installed and that's GST free.
Ridiculous.

Makes my eBay buy all the more of a saving. The install doesn't phase me and it's a little job for me to tackle once I've got there light bar setup sorted. I can mount the bar and run the wiring but just leave it in the engine bay until I can get the other bits and sort the connection to power. If I can't get any info from the FB guy it will be a visit to the local auto electrician.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ridiculous.

Makes my eBay buy all the more of a saving. The install doesn't phase me and it's a little job for me to tackle once I've got there light bar setup sorted. I can mount the bar and run the wiring but just leave it in the engine bay until I can get the other bits and sort the connection to power. If I can't get any info from the FB guy it will be a visit to the local auto electrician.
I couldn't tackle it myself, I could do the lightbar.

On my last Outlander I wired the lightbar direct to the high beam fuse in the engine compartment. No switch in the cabin as I couldn't find an access point. Never had any problems with that set up.

I also told the FB bloke to join this forum, I believe he will reply as he hasn't failed to do so yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Here ya go zarbs.

Hi Mate, I have read the forum I will register tonight, the yellow circle is an air ducts, I run the switch with water line going to the cabin next to brake booster on driver side and I mount the relay 10mm bolt behind headlight (red circle).
 

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Here ya go zarbs.

Hi Mate, I have read the forum I will register tonight, the yellow circle is an air ducts, I run the switch with water line going to the cabin next to brake booster on driver side and I mount the relay 10mm bolt behind headlight (red circle).
Thanks mate. I’ll keep th info for when I get everything together. As per one of the photos there are a comprehensive set of instructions included with the nudge bar. The Pacers bar set was very detailed.
 

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I couldn't tackle it myself, I could do the lightbar.

On my last Outlander I wired the lightbar direct to the high beam fuse in the engine compartment. No switch in the cabin as I couldn't find an access point. Never had any problems with that set up.
Yep, ID’d the Headlamp (HI) location in the fuse box which is 30A and there are two 10A high beam circuits next to it but a multimeter test shows no change in voltage when high beam is active so I don’t think either of those will suffice. Look forward to seeing where he has integrated the relay. That’s the only thing I need to sort now having the access point through the firewall.
 

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OK. I have sussed out the area as noted from the FB guy as to where the cable can penetrate the firewall but it will be tight (first pic). I'll need to unclip the cabling in the area to get a straight view. Once I'm ready i'll remove the interior under dash covers and have a poke around. Might be easier to push a pull wire out into the engine bay rather than try to get at it from the engine bay side. I'll need to remove any fitted cable connectors on the switch cables anyway to get them through the opening I would expect.

Next I checked the workshop manual for the LED headlight wiring (pic 2). There is the large relay (Headlight (HI)) that I was going to tap into but it was a bit tight to get the wiring into the right spot for a good connection. The wiring diagram shows there are two 10A fuses which run from the relay to each LED as a protection. On either side of these fuses is an open port which carries the voltage of the light circuit to each of the headlight control units. I connected my multimeter to this port and earthed to the body to test. With low beam set there is no voltage on the port. Selecting high beam and testing shows 13.81v so it is safe to assume that these ports are for the connection of relays to control driving lights or LED light bars.

To be sure I'll check with my local auto electrician. Plus I'll see if there is a plug that will fill the purpose of connecting the positive wire of the light bar relay to this port so it is secure. The port itself has a single copper contact but there is also what looks like a black plastic retaining clip in the opening which is best seen on the left side port which connects to the right hand high beam circuit.

All I need now is the nudge bar and the light bar and wiring kit to arrive...
 

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So I decided on the Adventure Kings 20" Slim Line light bar which has German Osram LED's. $59.95 with free shipping but I intend to flip the mounts inwards so they sit under the light bar and I will look at whether I can reduce the height of the mounts so it sits closer to the nudge bar to give a better air flow through to the turbo intercooler:

https://au.adventurekings.com/lighting-and-power/led-lights/kings-20-slim-line-led-light-bar-osram-specially-designed-leds-4755-lumens-ip68-rating-1-lux-at-322m.html

I will use their wiring kit as well ($36.95 with free shipping) but I will substitute their generic round on/off switch with a STEDI switch which fits straight into the standard Mitsubishi switch receptacles (32.2mx22m) on the safety switch area near the drivers door:

https://au.adventurekings.com/lighting-and-power/led-lights/adventure-kings-illuminator-led-light-bar-wiring-harness-diy-deutsch-plug.html

STEDI switches are many and varied (see link) though the reviews note you may need to trim the inside of the switch to fit the dash hole but the outside of the switch hides any adjustments you might make with a Dremel or similar for a neat finish:

https://www.stedi.com.au/modern-mitsubishi-oem-push-switches.html

I went for a simple power on as I didn't want to complicate things by trying to adding power from the dash for the name display though they say they supply a full wiring diagram.

I love a good project to keep me busy. Watch this space for pics as I go through the install...

PS. May need a new 30A Headlight Relay (HI) as I cracked the top off my one when pressing too hard to remove it from the socket. Popped the top off but it has a tape cover at the moment until I can source a replacement. All is working OK. They're quite fragile in the casing.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
WOW, you are progressing well, I will wait until your finished until I do mine.

So, the Kings harness is plug and play with the headlight connection? Which connector fits, HB3/9005 or H4?

That bloke hasn't been on Facebook since his last post, seems he hasn't registered here also?
 

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So, the Kings harness is plug and play with the headlight connection? Which connector fits, HB3/9005 or H4?
Neither fits. The EC has a non-standard round 9 pin plug which connects the the light so I am going with the method I described in my previous post. Takes out the ease of plug and play unfortunately. There is nothing in the wiring for the lights anywhere that allows the insertion of those plug and play connectors. I don't see an issue with using the output port on the 10A high beam for the light. From my understanding of the wiring diagram it is only a signal line to the LED control unit which then uses a separate connection to draw battery power in for the high beam light.

Will check everything with an auto electrician just to be sure. Not going to Mitsubishi though as they'd want to charge over the top for any of this lighting stuff.

Saw you posts on Whirlpool regarding the software version issue. Seems to be a larger issue out there...
 

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Stage 1 - Through the firewall

OK, so I have started to suss out the requirements for the light bar control switch mount in the cabin as all the parts are on the way from suppliers. Following the lead from @oldsalt and the FB guy I investigated under the dash to find the point of access through the firewall.

Unlike previous Mitsubishi's I've owned the EC only has one windscreen washer reservoir in the engine bay. To cater for the rear screen washer a tube runs all the way to the back window from the engine bay underneath the door kick plates floor level. Knowing this, thanks to FB guy, it gives the access we need to get in.

First step was to remove the under dash cover to access the firewall from inside. The panel is held on by five plastic scrivets which are easy to remove with a flat tip screwdriver (pic 1).

Next I ID'd the washer pipe where it entered the cabin and its location is easy to get to from the inside but a bugger from the engine bay. For ease of access the firewall soundproofing here has a flap that you can fold towards the centre of the car to get full view and access to the pipe and the grommet.

So I decided to go from inside to outside for ease of access to the grommet around the pipe. To penetrate the grommet I used a length of 4mm square grass trimmer line which had the leading end but to a point (pic 2). I steered clear of metal for this task so I lessened the chances of piercing the pipe carrying water. I simply pushed the point of the line against the grommet below the pipe to pierce a new hole through it. This method doesn't remove any of the grommet and should still provide a good water seal once the wires are in place for the control switch. If you are using a less solid line you may need to pierce the grommet with an awl or a small tip screwdriver.

With the string being orange it was very easy to see in the engine bay and to pull out in sufficient length to provide a good starter to pull through the cable for the switch connection. I will need to remove any cable connectors from the switch end of the cable when it arrives to get it through the hole and reattach connections once inside. Pics 3 & 4 show the trimmer line from inside and in the engine bay. I intend to wipe a small dob of silicone sealer over the inside location too fill any minor gaps once it's complete just in case to seal it.

I have checked the connection for the headlight high beam as noted above and the fitting to get the light bar relay into the circuit is a 2.8mm blade so I will need to fit a 2.8mm female blade connector to the positive side of the relay cabling after penetrating the side of the relay box and fitting a grommet to waterproof the addition. The earth (negative) lead can be fitted onto the front retaining bolt of the relay box with a ring fitting on the end of the cable or to one of the two earth grounds on the chassis just below. Pics later once that's been done of course.

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Whose a clever boy, well done and thanks for posting the photos etc.

Once you have finished I will get my nudge bar installed and do the light myself.
 

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Note on STEDI switches (I sent them a question where they only answered half of it):

Q: Do these fit the Eclipse Cross and if so are any of them momentary switches?

A: Hello, unfortunatly we have not tried fitting these to a Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross yet, so i will not be able to comment on the fact if it will or will not fit, all models that they fit can be found in the listing on our website.
 

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Note on STEDI switches (I sent them a question where they only answered half of it)
They list these switches for Mitsubishi as being 32.5 by 22mm internal. I have popped out the blank in the location I intend to fit the new switch and it to be exactly those measurements. They are standard Mitsubishi switch sizes found in most models these days. As noted the comment on their feedback page is that you may need to refine the rear of the switch to fit the opening but the flush fit of the switch was spot on. It's not a great outlay should it be outsized and I can work on the fit as part of the install. Thanks for the info...
 

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Ok. This is great info.
I have cut up a blank to put in 2 momentary push buttons for swing gate and garage door openers. I would rather have 2 buttons made for the openings. At 50+ Euro for any of the already existing buttons is very high. I just want some that fit and blend in. I now see on ebay I can find many at that size. Now I need to find out if any of them are momentary. Off to do some searching.
 

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Stage 1.5 - Light harness relay fittings

Trip to the local auto parts store this morning to pick up the connections for splicing the light bar wiring harness relay into the high beam circuit. Turned out to be a doddle. Got a pack of 2.8mm female blade connectors, pack of ring connectors for the earth and some ⅛" grommets that fits a 9/32" hole which I'll need to drill in the side to allow the positive wire into the engine bay relay box. I don't want to run the wire between the opening of the body and the lid of the relay box as this will leave the internals open to moisture ingress during normal operation. The grommet will have a silicone sealant wiped on the edges to keep moisture at bay.

The 2.8mm female blade fits perfectly and is a solid connection. Light bar and wiring kit are to be delivered this afternoon from Brisbane after shipping yesterday morning. That's what I call great service. I'll do a test hook up of the light and harness to check everything before the nudge bar and cabin switch arrive later in the week...
 

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I'll need to drill in the side to allow the positive wire into the engine bay relay box.
Turns out to be not possible. The base of the relay box is very crowded and any attempt to drill into it will likely hit a vital connection. So, I will have to channel between the top and bottom via the join but bring it in from the rear so as to lower the risk of direct water ingestion into the relay box. A cover on the outside of Gorilla tape will assist the seal in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Turns out to be not possible. The base of the relay box is very crowded and any attempt to drill into it will likely hit a vital connection. So, I will have to channel between the top and bottom via the join but bring it in from the rear so as to lower the risk of direct water ingestion into the relay box. A cover on the outside of Gorilla tape will assist the seal in that area.
That's a bugga, although that's the way I did it on the Outlander and I didn't have any problems.
 
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