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Stage 2 - Testing electrical connectivity

I have the light and harness and was able to do a test wire of the components into the system with great success. Cut the H4 connector of one of the light harness adaptors and was able to attach the 2.8mm female blade and the earth ring. Connected the blade to the 10A light circuit pole and the earth to the front bolt of the relay box mount (pic 1).

Connected the positive and negative leads to the battery terminals. Positive will go underneath the top connector plate on the full install so it is flat and the pole protector plate will be able to close and lock in place (Pic 2 & 3). Temporarily connected the light harness main relay to the front valance bolt for earth. It will be mounted upright and out of direct splash upon final install depending on cable lengths etc.

The lighting harness and light bar both have Deutsch connectors so connection is a simple snap together (pic 4). Once I had closed up the main relay box I disconnected the relay harness cable and was able to leave the female connector in place. I like to label all cables I run in the car so that no one pulls anything out and all my additions can be identified easily (pic 5).

I started the car and ran the supplied control switch (pic 6) into the cabin through the drivers door. I recorded a test video with me in the drivers seat and the control switch in hand.

https://imgur.com/LYxlFp8

I tested first that high beam worked as normal with the LED light bar harness connected. Then I switched to low beam and activated the LED light bar control switch from the cabin. I then turned the lights to high beam on the control stalk to see that both the headlights went to high beam and the LED light bar illuminated. I observed the dials and warning lights in the dash to see if any anomolies cropped up. None did.

Being daylight the switching from low beam to high beam is not easily visible but you can see high beam kick in. You can certainly see the LED light bar kick in.

Waiting for the nudge bar and switch to finish off this project. The supplied switch, while it would fit, has a red light which I hate and is square shaped rather than the rounded switches Mitsubishi use and it would bug me that it didn't look right. No, I don't have OCD...
 

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Finished fitting the harness. Pulling the switch wires through the firewall unseated the grommet so I had to pull back the soundproofing to get it back in place. All good. The harness from Kings has quality sheathing on every set of leads and I was able to take the switch sheath up to the engine side firewall cut it and, once pulled through, add it back onto the cables in the cabin (pic 1) and out to the switch location (pic 2). I mounted the main relay of the harness below the lip of the upper bumper support near the screen washer bottle (pic 3). It is protected from low down splash and is behind the rubber seal of the bonnet above.

Running the cables to the battery and relay box was made simple as there was a spare pair of mounts behind the radiator above the coolant overflow hose (pic 4). I would surmise that EC's with headlight washers won't have this available as I think the left headlight washer pipe would be located in these mounts. The whole harness install has been far easier than I expected.

I have included a pic (5) of the light bar for reference. I intend to have the mounts inwards under the lightbar body to keep the width to a minimum. I was able to place the light bar in the opening for the turbo air flow without any problem. Anyone with a skill set in bracket fabrication could easily build two brackets which could be connected to the pedestrian safety bar under this section of the lower bumper which would lay underneath the plastics of the lower inlet section and bolt through to mount the light bar inside this opening without a nudge bar. As shown in one of the FB pics earlier in this thread, the pedestrian safety bar is securely mounted to the subframe though I don't know if any sensors are mounted on it. Just a thought...
 

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Stage 3 - Final Install

Big day today. The STEDI switch arrived and I was able to connect it to the wiring harness in minutes with no hiccups. I simply tied the wires together, tinned each set of wires to make a solid connection and then covered them in heat shrink for safety. Placed all wires into the supplied sheath of the wiring harness and the switch pushed straight back into the socket like it was an original. It's a simple press switch. In is ON and out is OFF. A green light illuminates when the switch is on and the high beam is also on to let you know the condition of the lightbar. A quick and simple install. I can recommend STEDI Mitsubishi switches. Strangely, the invoice listed the switch I ordered as Toyota so they must be the same. See pics 1 to 3.

The nudge bar also arrived today packed in a single box with the bar inside a bubble wrap bag loosely assembled. Attached was a bag containing the fasteners and instructions (pic 4). Also included is a paper template to cut to holes in the bumper to allow access to the top support bolts which are countersunk behind the number plate.

Whilst the instructions show the flow of install it does not show how to remove the parts of the bumper. For this you will need to have an iPad or similar handy and log onto the Russian web sire and follow the steps as listed in the workshop manual. The process is quite simple and surprisingly quick. Pic 5 shows the bumper off the car and ready to lay out the templates and cut the upper mount access holes in the bumper. You cut out the templates and tape them to the inside of the bumper making sure you align the lines on the template with the peaks and valleys of the bumper surface (pic 6). Once on you drill a 3mm pilot hole from the back, turn the bumper over and drill two 30mm holes from the front so as not to cause too much damage to the painted bumper surface. Pic 7 shows the two holes from the inside before a cleaned up the edges.

The next step was to install the left and right mounting brackets to the bumper support beam. Once again it is a simple step. The support beam has to notches on either end and you begin by mounting the LH mount and it slots completely into the notch on the left of the mount. You connect it with four bolts sets which have backing plates to lock the mount to the beam. You need to ensure the backing plates are oriented as per the instruction to ensure a secure connection. Then mount the RH side mount close to the notch but this notch has play so you have lateral adjustment later during the final setup and alignment prior to remounting the bumper. You then add the nudge bar loosely to check fit and and the cross beam between the two mounts (pic 8).

If you look closely you can see a notch on the top edge of the flat area of the nudge bar in the centre. This notch is used to measure from the centre out to the two headlights to ensure the bar is centred. If not you can slide to mounts around to adjust it. Lastly you need to measure the height is the same on both sides of the bar. The instructions list the measuring points. My install was out by 3mm left to right after install with no more adjustment so I'm happy with that. I then did a dry fit of the 20" Kings Slim LED Lightbar to see if it fit OK (pic 9).

That is essentially it. Final step is to remove the nudge bar and remount the bumper to the car ensuring that the holes you cut in the bumper align with the upper mounting bolts inside the bumper and also the two bolts either side of the air opening are aligned as well. Once the bumper is on and ready you simply slide the nudge bar back onto the mounts. The top mounts have countersunk hex head bolts which have aluminium spacers behind the nudge bar to keep the bar in the correct position and distance from the car.

The lower bolts mount from the sides and you torque all bolts as listed in the instructions. The finished job is very pleasing to look at and you will notice that the bright nickel coated bolts seen in the FB post at the start of this thread can't be seen in my final pics as, before remounting the bumper, I painted all bright bolts on the mounts with a matt black spray paint and will let it dry overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
You did well zarbs.

This will be my last post on this forum, I have ordered a Subaru Forester 2.5i-S

The EC is a great car and I loved it, however, Mitsubishi and my local stealerships (dealerships) put me off the car.

If Mitsubishi Head Office and two dealerships can't get organised to update software on the head-unit, I hate to think of the problems I would have had for any major issues.

My new Forester is still in Japan awaiting a boat ride to Australia.

What attracted me to the Forester was it seems to be the only reasonably priced SUV you can buy that does not have a black interior, I have had black for years and I am over it.

This photo will give you an idea, however, mine is leather.

I enjoyed the banter on here and I wish you all well into the future.
 

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I enjoyed the banter on here and I wish you all well into the future.
Sorry to see you go @oldsalt. Will be a quieter place without you. Possibly a sense of things to come. Plenty of lurker's on this site as the thread view counts are high but the membership remains low. Maybe there is a registration issue as noted in other threads but the light seems to be off as far as admin goes. The purpose of a forum is to foster discussion and ideas but I get the feeling I'm talking to myself at times. I may not be far behind you. Good luck with the Subaru. My partner has a VX and she enjoys it...
 

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Discussion Starter #48
One more post, apparently you cant put a nudge bar and or lightbar on a 2020 Forester as there is no high beam switch, actually there is no high beam globe.

The eyesight sensors don't allow for any accessory forward of the bonnet.

Zarb's if you go this forum may as well close, I think it was only a few of us keeping it going.

Merry Christmas and all the best for the New Year, over and out,
 

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The eyesight sensors don't allow for any accessory forward of the bonnet.
The EC can't have anything higher than the nudge bar hence the reason why this lightbar solution is a godsend. The installation instructions note the bar will intrude in the front camera view but all the radar and laser sensors are unaffected.

It was great chatting @oldsalt. Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you and yours...
 

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This will be my last post on this forum...
I've just seen this. Sorry to see you go - you were the biggest driving force behind this forum.


My days here might be numbered too. My nearby dealer has just lost their Mitsubishi franchise, so I'll have to drive further for service. The FCM system gives me so many false alarms that it's really bothering me. Although I love the interior of the Eclipse Cross, and find it comfortable, and love the way it drives, none of my family or regular passengers find the seats comfortable. I'll have to see what alternatives pop up.


I understand your reasons for wanting a lighter interior in your Subaru. Before I decided to get the Eclipse Cross, I test-drove a Toyota RAV-4 with light-coloured leather seats. What a lovely interior it was! And lighter colours are cooler in summer too.


Travel well!
 

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One last view...
Zarbs - not relevant to this post really, but I saw on your photo that you appear to have the "chrome" eyebrows on your back lights. What do you think of those? I am looking into ordering, but haven't pulled the trigger. I hope to throw up some pictures as I get stuff in, but again, its winter here and I can't do much to my car as I don't have a garage and its been -22 F (-30 C) lately. I did order the struts for the hood. Cannot wait to install them. Might try to sweet talk a friend into using their garage for the afternoon. Anyways, sorry to hear people want to tap out of the forum :sad:.
 

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Hi Betha, The surrounds are relatively cheap and easy to fit. I like them as well as the front fog/turn signal surrounds. Adds a bit of style IMHO. Got mine via AliExpress but they are also available from cartrimhome.com (see pic) where I have ordered several items but they tend to run out of stocks quickly and you have to wait for them to restock.
 

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Thanks for the info on cartrimhome they have great prices! Ok, I'm going to order the tail light chrome pieces! I didn't even think about the front or back fog light surrounds. Im not sure the back is my cup of tea but I like the front ones!
 

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I have always had good outcomes with cartrimhome and they haven't mucked me about. They sent a wrong product with one order and they told me to keep it (I could still fit it to the car) and they sent the correct product without any shipping charge in quick order after I notified them. As noted they can deplete stock quite quickly which can affect delivery speed but I have not had this issue on my orders. Others here have not been so lucky. You just need to be aware that it is coming from China and not a local warehouse in your home country. It's all about expectations.

With regard to the chrome tail light trims I recommend applying 3M primer to the area where the trims attach to ensure perfect adhesion and little likelihood of them ever coming off. The primer is available on eBay is small bottles or tubes. Be wary as cartrimhome may send you some preparation pads with your order. These ARE NOT alcohol wipes but the primer impregnated in the same small pads. DO NOT wipe the pads over the entire light as it will destroy the lens plastic. Only wipe it on the area where the trims will be fitted. Do a dry alignment to see where this area is. I've read reviews where buyers have mistaken these wipes as alcohol cleaning wipes and smeared them over their plastics virtually destroying them as the primer leaves a film which etches the surface to key the surface for better (read permanent) adhesion.
 

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The attached pic shows the sachets of adhesion promoter in two styles to be aware of. The tube of 3M 944 primer was from eBay but is dried out. I keep it to remind me of the name of the stuff. I now purchase in the nail polish bottle which is 10ml. I bought two of these bottles last year to secure all of my external trims. The primer is quite viscose and dries out quite quickly once opened in much the same way super glue does.

Tip - when using the pads wear rubber gloves otherwise you will get a coating of the adhesion primer on your hands and, whilst nowhere near as bad as super glue, the feel on the skin can be annoying.
 

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Usage depends on your model EC. If it has the safety features like Adaptive Cruise Control and Multi-around monitor this nudge bar will break all of that functionality. The front camera will be obscured and the front parking sensors will give a constant warning. The ACC radar unit behind the bumper will also give an alarm and not work. The Australian nudge bar from Mitsubishi is lower and does not have these issues as it is designed for the car and its safety features.
 
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