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i have mine installed on my 22 cross, makes a good difference in power, but i feel its not very smooth through the rpms, like a bit of stumbling, i have it on setting 6 with 93 octane fuel. if i nail the throttle from a stop or after a sharp turn, the dash lights up with every error possible and goes into a safety mode until i clear the boost error code. however, if i just roll on the throttle, no problems at all. i have about 3k miles on this unit with about 6k on the car itself.
 

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i have mine installed on my 22 cross, makes a good difference in power, but i feel its not very smooth through the rpms, like a bit of stumbling, i have it on setting 6 with 93 octane fuel. if i nail the throttle from a stop or after a sharp turn, the dash lights up with every error possible and goes into a safety mode until i clear the boost error code. however, if i just roll on the throttle, no problems at all. i have about 3k miles on this unit with about 6k on the car itself.
That's concerning that the car decides to throw codes at WOT. That probably means the "chip" is not doing what it's suppose to do at certain throttles...?

I'm just making an assumption here...but (immediately at 100% WOT) since the "chip" is just "readjusting" boost levels, the ECU is 'sensing' this increase of air and goes into "limp mode" (flashing dash lights). From TDI, they're claiming the chip "remaps vehicle performance moment to moment based on data received via the engine sensor interface harness"...Since the Eclipse Cross has a drive by wire throttle, I'd assume the ECU sees immediate 100% throttle, then it goes "holy crap, that's a hole lot of boost, what the hell is going on?!" and cuts to limp mode before the driver makes any more excessive damage. If anything, I'd assume that this chip doesn't know what it to do at 100% immediate WOT which freaks out the ECU. This is just my assumption.

I have not seen actual dyno numbers to really believe the TDI claims on the power increase. But I'd like to see the AFRs and Boost and dyno numbers before really believing in this 'modification' for the Eclipse Cross, not for other cars.

I'd do it on mine but that warranty is pretty cool right now. Until someone does it on here to their Eclipse Cross, brings it to the dyno, and we see some power gains (and afrs and boost levels)...I'm going to wait.
 

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That's concerning that the car decides to throw codes at WOT. That probably means the "chip" is not doing what it's suppose to do at certain throttles...?

I'm just making an assumption here...but (immediately at 100% WOT) since the "chip" is just "readjusting" boost levels, the ECU is 'sensing' this increase of air and goes into "limp mode" (flashing dash lights). From TDI, they're claiming the chip "remaps vehicle performance moment to moment based on data received via the engine sensor interface harness"...Since the Eclipse Cross has a drive by wire throttle, I'd assume the ECU sees immediate 100% throttle, then it goes "holy crap, that's a hole lot of boost, what the hell is going on?!" and cuts to limp mode before the driver makes any more excessive damage. If anything, I'd assume that this chip doesn't know what it to do at 100% immediate WOT which freaks out the ECU. This is just my assumption.

I have not seen actual dyno numbers to really believe the TDI claims on the power increase. But I'd like to see the AFRs and Boost and dyno numbers before really believing in this 'modification' for the Eclipse Cross, not for other cars.

I'd do it on mine but that warranty is pretty cool right now. Until someone does it on here to their Eclipse Cross, brings it to the dyno, and we see some power gains (and afrs and boost levels)...I'm going to wait.
well, i did try something new yesterday, i didnt clear the code, and when i started the car up, just the check engine light was on. so i drove it home which is about 50 miles from work, it runs and drives great and the WOT issue dosent cause limp mode anymore and no other lights like FCM or lane departure ect. i started the car this morning and the check engine light is still on, but i drove into work with no problems or hiccups with of course the added pickup from the 'chip', my thought is maybe after a few drive cycles the light may clear out. i also think every time i cleared the code its like the Cross had to relearn with the 'chip'. when i get time this weekend i will run the car on the Torque pro app and take a look the AFR's and temps. i will def keep everyone in the loop if anything changes for better or worse.
 

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well, i did try something new yesterday, i didnt clear the code, and when i started the car up, just the check engine light was on. so i drove it home which is about 50 miles from work, it runs and drives great and the WOT issue dosent cause limp mode anymore and no other lights like FCM or lane departure ect. i started the car this morning and the check engine light is still on, but i drove into work with no problems or hiccups with of course the added pickup from the 'chip', my thought is maybe after a few drive cycles the light may clear out. i also think every time i cleared the code its like the Cross had to relearn with the 'chip'. when i get time this weekend i will run the car on the Torque pro app and take a look the AFR's and temps. i will def keep everyone in the loop if anything changes for better or worse.
Thanks for the update!

It does look promising but hopefully we can get some real world numbers. I'm still very skeptical about TDI's power claims though. It's definitely not 'impossible' to get an additional 10-15hp with a good tune (on these turbo engines) but the claims are pretty out there.
 

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Thanks for the update!

It does look promising but hopefully we can get some real world numbers. I'm still very skeptical about TDI's power claims though. It's definitely not 'impossible' to get an additional 10-15hp with a good tune (on these turbo engines) but the claims are pretty out there.
i would say def more torque, butt dyno says perhaps 20-30 ft lbs at the crank, perhaps 15 hp at the crank. the biggest difference is in passing from 55 mph+ and off the line pulls hard enough to make traction light flash for a bit. not bad considering. i would def be interested in an actual flash tune when something like that comes along. side note, not that im to concerned with mpg, but mpg seems to be about the same with or without the box, but i will confirm that with the fuelly app.
 

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i would say def more torque, butt dyno says perhaps 20-30 ft lbs at the crank, perhaps 15 hp at the crank. the biggest difference is in passing from 55 mph+ and off the line pulls hard enough to make traction light flash for a bit. not bad considering. i would def be interested in an actual flash tune when something like that comes along. side note, not that im to concerned with mpg, but mpg seems to be about the same with or without the box, but i will confirm that with the fuelly app.
started the car today, CEL is off, car runs like a champ now. will do some more testing on both around town and highway this weekend. in a side note, the factory intercooler is not very good at keeping air temps down after a hard pull, which is expected. will be fitting a Mishimoto J line intercooler with custom aluminum hard pipes within a few weeks, need to fab a good mounting system for it. for what its worth, the factory intercooler is a tube and fin style with plastic end tanks and weighs about 3 pounds, the upgraded Mishimoto unit is bar and plate aluminum with welded aluminum end tanks, and weights just about 20 lbs. def made heavy duty and designed for performance. keep you posted.
 

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Not sure if he’s still in here or not but someone installed a mishimoto intercooler on here already. Might want to check it out
yeah, i saw that post, looks like he went for the unit that was ratted for 22 psi, i wanted the extra insurance of a 40 psi unit. too bad he didnt do a DIY write up. its pretty easy to do, i just like to build something that is going to last with the best results possible. i try to do DIY write ups on stuff that i do that i know will make proven and reliable results.
 

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yeah, i saw that post, looks like he went for the unit that was ratted for 22 psi, i wanted the extra insurance of a 40 psi unit. too bad he didnt do a DIY write up. its pretty easy to do, i just like to build something that is going to last with the best results possible. i try to do DIY write ups on stuff that i do that i know will make proven and reliable results.
So no diy update? Or did You never do it?
 

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started the car today, CEL is off, car runs like a champ now. will do some more testing on both around town and highway this weekend. in a side note, the factory intercooler is not very good at keeping air temps down after a hard pull, which is expected. will be fitting a Mishimoto J line intercooler with custom aluminum hard pipes within a few weeks, need to fab a good mounting system for it. for what its worth, the factory intercooler is a tube and fin style with plastic end tanks and weighs about 3 pounds, the upgraded Mishimoto unit is bar and plate aluminum with welded aluminum end tanks, and weights just about 20 lbs. def made heavy duty and designed for performance. keep you posted.
So did the code disappear by itself on the third day or you had to manually clear it? I am considering making a couple power modifications to my moms eclipse cross before we send it to Europe, but I want to make sure no lights are going to show up since she will be driving the vehicle there 99% of the time. Thanks!
 

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